Hump Ridge Track

Luncheon Rock on Day 2 of the Hump Ridge Track.

An October 2022 adventure, and our first multiday hike! We were excited and nervous, and didn’t really know what we’d gotten ourselves in for. All we knew was that we were about to hike 61km over 3 days and that it would be a huge test of our fitness and willpower. Initially we’d planned to do this in April over Easter, but unfortunately this happened to be when Covid decided to finally hit us. In hindsight, it was probably for the best as we managed to fit in a few more training hikes before doing something this big! I hope that you enjoy reading our journey!

The Hump Ridge Track is a luxury hike and has all of the amenities you could wish for after a long day’s hiking including a bed, shower, and a shop with freeze-dried foods, wine, beer, lollies, chocolate etc. Breakfast, tea and coffee is included and I feel as though this is a nice way to begin multiday hiking adventures, although this is by no means easy as you will come to see. However, everything worthwhile has some element of difficulty to it, and this track is more than worthwhile. The Hump Ridge Track is also set to become a Great Walk from October 2023, so if you’re making your way through them make sure you add this one to your list!

Day 1.

I don't even know how to begin describing this track, you'll get much more context about what it was like from my vlog I have no doubt. But for now, I'll do my best. I was so excited about embarking on this track. It has been something I've been working towards all year, and although it got put on hold once, Niko and I finally got there! Our first multiday hike, although we really had no idea what we were in for.

The first 10 kilometres are pretty cruisy as you meander through forestry, walk along Bluecliffs Beach, and cross a multitude of swing bridges (my favourite). We had the most incredible weather for the first day and were lucky to be able to stop and take lots of breaks and practice our photography skills. We did have to get down the beach mostly without stopping though after we realised the tide was coming in. Bluecliffs Beach is stunning and I would go there again in a heartbeat. This is a beach with soft golden sand AND covered with gemstones. The best of both worlds.

Walking through this forestry was heaven. I honestly felt like we were not on earth anymore. It was peaceful and tranquil as we traipsed boardwalks and climbed over mossy tree roots, making our way to Water Bridge, where the real climb was about to begin. This section of the track had modulating gradients and wasn't too taxing on the body. We also found a toilet tucked away in a most beautiful spot amongst the ferns, which I was delighted about after having walked for so long without any toilet stops. At Water Bridge there is a shelter and a sign informing you that you are about to embark on climbing The Hill, the last 6km of day 1. It suggests that you stop and take a 5-10 minute break at each km marker to rest and catch your breath. Us, just having embarked on Roys Peak thought that it surely couldn't be that bad. We were so wrong. This section of the track is called The Hill for a reason. At this point we'd already been walking for about 8 hours, with lots of stops of course, but we were getting tired and sore. Motivation was still high however and we began our ascent.
I have to say that the first 3km were okay, but the last 3 were killer, especially considering we came across 2 signs about half an hour apart stating that the lodge was 30 minutes away. Climbing up tree roots is becoming somewhat of a specialty at this point, and I've never been more grateful for the boardwalk to appear and know that we only had 10-15 minutes to go. We also arrived at the perfect time to catch the sunset, so couldn't complain too much, as tired as we were. That was the moment that made our 10 hour trek all worth it.

Day 2.

What a view! We started day two with a short detour to the summit, and it did not disappoint. Surrounded by mountains and ocean, once again we were the only people at the summit (I believe that most people had completed this the night before so they could get straight on the track). The detour took us 40 minutes and I'm so glad we got to be up there while the sun was still coming up over the sea, and it was quiet, still, and peaceful. We could look down upon Okaka Lodge and all the way out to Rakiura/Stewart Island and over The Takitimu Mountains. How grateful I am for my body and mental stamina to be able to visit places like this. Although these tracks are testing at times I know that I am privileged with the capability to be able to undertake them.

From fairy glade forest to alpine terrain, tussocks, boardwalk, and everything in between. Day 2 from Okaka Lodge to Port Craig Lodge is filled with diversity. One minute you are in amongst green mossy forest and the next you are on a boardwalk on top of a mountain ridge. There are a lot of stairs on the second day! I found this challenging on my knees and boardwalk isn't the ideal terrain to try and use poles, so sidestepping it was. Down what felt like a hundred staircases, I breathed a sigh of relief when the dirt track reappeared and I could use my poles again. I also know that I'm probably one of the few people who feel this way.
We stopped for snacks at Luncheon Rock. A little bit off the track this is a rock you can climb up and sit, taking in your surroundings for a breather. If you're feeling brave, you can sit right on the edge for a moment and see how high up you really are. The first part of day two is undulating, ups and downs, boardwalk, stairs, and dirt/tree root covered track until you are about 10km from Port Craig. It's not overly challenging terrain, however if your knees are anything like mine I would highly recommend tape!

The last section of the track was the easiest part of our day by far. 7km to Port Craig Lodge was the sign we were greeted with. 7km of walking down an old tram line, over lengthy viaducts, putting one foot in front of the other. It was beautiful, however there's only so much straight flat walking you are mentally prepared for after you've already walked for 14km. I turned my watch tracking on to count the kilometres as we attempted to find each marker, and I feel like knowing how far we had to go definitely helped morale.

Day 3.

Rain Soaked.
When we woke up on the 3rd day it was pouring down with rain. We went and had breakfast and checked the weather forecast, which told us that it was due to stop raining by 10am. I feel like the universe was having a good laugh at us for believing this, as it rained and rained relentlessly for at least the first 10km. The first few kilometres, I was just admiring the way the forest looked in the moody lighting, thinking about how different it was to be hiking in the rain with lush colours and smells surrounding us. My perspective soon changed. Drenched right through my waterproof layers, glasses tangled in my hair, and a popped blister in my boot, I began praying for the rain to stop as we slid around in the mud with each step. It eventually did stop raining, just after 1.30pm as we reached the first beach on our trek back. I stopped to check on my feet in the shelter of a small cave before continuing onward. I definitely have to call this part an adventure I'm glad I experienced, but would not like to repeat.

From Blowholes Beach to Bluecliffs Beach, to the end of the track. The rain had stopped and after taking shelter in a small cave to deal with my blisters, which I couldn't do anything about because they already had plasters on them, our spirits were higher as we traipsed across beaches, up small hills, and down to each next bay. Eventually we made it back to the junction where one direction points to Port Craig and the other to Okaka Lodge. We knew we were almost home. This section of the track, familiar with each step was welcome, aside from the slip that had become considerably more slippery since we first crossed it on day one. I was proud of myself for making it across without sliding into oblivion as I'm fairly clumsy at the best of times.

By the time we reached Bluecliffs Beach my feet were not my friends, tired, sore, 5km to go. We stopped for a while here to get some cool drone footage and rest before committing to the final climb back up the stairs to the finish line. I've never been so happy to see a track marker. Knowing we were so close to the finish line, good food, and rest to look forward to brought a few tears to my eyes. The sense of accomplishment at rounding the fence line to see the beginning of the track was something I've never felt.

As I collapsed into the car the weight of the last few days left my body. The most testing adventure of my life, both physically and mentally, I had completed. I'm so proud of myself, and incredibly thankful to Niko for being my hiking buddy and support network, letting me drag him out on wild adventures.